That's the sizeI'm making. Add extra stitches between the patterns. Pattern D can be doubled from 4 stitches to 8 stitches. opr tripled to 12. Pattern G can get another wavy line or two.

You might want to experiment with adding four stitches to pattern B making 12 total. Doing the crosses 3 over 3 instead of 2 over 2. Swatch this first to see if you like the look.

Pattern H you can add as many stitches as you need to get the desired width after you've tried everything else.

This shouldn't change the over all look very much and still get a sweater that fits you.
Quelyn

Thanks Quelyn! That is the information I needed the most!
Annette

Quelyn, I'm curious. Are you planning to add length to the whole sweater, and in particular to the armholes? How do you plan to figure out the rate of decrease for the raglan portion?

Why bother adding repeats? I'm just going to change my gauge and keep the pattern the same. There are 139sts across the back, right? At 6sts/1", that would give you 23" for the back and a 46" finished sweater. For a 48" sweater, you should aim for 5.75sts/1". I'm going to start swatching with a few different yarns and see which works out best colorwise and gaugewise. Will post when I've worked it all out.
XOXOXOX
Maria

YOu might want to look at Janet Szabo's FLAK knit along for her comments about changing patterns within an Aran sweater. Go to her website Big Sky knitting and find the KAL button on the left side. Her self published book on desinging arans is also very helpful. I took the easy route and just changed my guage and then plugged that into Sweater Wizard to get the row guage corrected for the raglan decreases. I am knitting both of these sweaters together and am going to do this one in the round after the underarms. So I am starting with the sleeves which is helping me get used to the patterns.