Tenna, instead of binding off one stitch at the end of the last cable row, look at Section A -- you'll see a decrease symbol on the first row (two rows below the actual row 1).

I see you're using Cascade 220 and plan to upsize some. Me, too! What gauge did you get using #7 US for the bands? Are you using #8 US for the body; what is your gauge there? How do you plan to upsize? I might start a thread about upsizing.

Thanks!

Tenna, instead of binding off one stitch at the end of the last cable row, look at Section A -- you'll see a decrease symbol on the first row (two rows below the actual row 1).

I see you're using Cascade 220 and plan to upsize some. Me, too! What gauge did you get using #7 US for the bands? Are you using #8 US for the body; what is your gauge there? How do you plan to upsize. I might start a thread about upsizing.

Thanks!

Beverly, I did see that decrease on chart A...after the fact, but I'm not sure that it matters much where the decrease is, as I don't think it's going to realign any cabling where it's at....

And after beginning on the sweater and getting to row 2, I find out that the chest measurement is going to be 41", which is a LONG LONG way from a size 34 that was initially stated....with a 7 and 8 I was getting only a few stitches more, but the end result (as we all know) is a larger sweater, and when I held it up to me,...well, let's just say that when they posted the actual (read that "corrected") measurements, I realized that if I stay with the 7 and 8, the sweater will be big enough to fit my HUSBAND, rather than me, and that's just not going to cut it....so I ripped...and I'll begin again using the needles specified. I also seem to be knitting a little bit looser on this one (maybe Mr. Designer knits more loosely than I do, and so the itty bitty needles). So I figure that the sizes called for are going to make a sweater for me...so I suppose that, depending on whether you are "fluffier" than me will determine if you go up a size or not...

Beverly...
I looked back on the pattern, and yes, it does matter!!! The decrease happens on the 69th and 70th stitch, which is the very middle cable and concerns the first and second stitches of the cable, and it sets up the left half of the sweater.

So it is important that it fall where it does

I have another question about the interface between the ribbing and the pattern. The last row of chart J is a wrong side row, i.e. the row after a cable twist. Is there another plain right-side row after this, which includes the decrease at the center stitch, then the wrong-side row that gets the pattern established? The extra row doesn't seem very desirable to me. I'm thinking of doing an extra row of ribbing on the right side and incorporating the decrease into that row. Opionions, anyone?