Now if they would only do it for human sized people and not the wonderfully diminutive Japanese.

Wow. That is without a doubt one of the most offensive things I've ever read. Good going!

Sue, it looks like the button bands ARE knitted at the same time as the fronts. If you total the number of stitches in each section, plus the button band, you get 76 sts. Then you decrease that one stitch below Section A, for 75 sts. That corresponds with the 75 sts indicated under the schematic for the right front.

On the right front, it looks like the first buttonhole is on row 6, then 20 rows separate the remaining buttonholes, then the top buttonhole is 16 rows from where you add the neckband. I think I'll do the left front first; there's enough going on without having to deal with those buttonholes. Plus, the completed left front will tell me if I need to adjust the placement of the buttonholes when I do the right front.

On both fronts and on the back, it appears that the stitches are not bound off, but are placed on stitch holders then picked up for the neckband. Will we ever get that far?!?

Yes, definitely, the button bands are supposed to be knitted along with the fronts.

Since I want to do this in the round, I am seeking suggestions for the best way to handle adding the button bands afterwards.

Ruth, here is how I would approach it. Knit the bottom band back and forth, not in the round, including both 8 stitch front bands. When you get to the body, put the front band stitches on hold, cast on 8 or 10 steek stitches, then knit the body in the round up to the collar.

Since I'm assuming you're not using a sticky yarn, like Shetland, I would definitely sew the steeks before cutting, but use a stretchy sewing stitch that has some give. Instead of sewing the steeks and then cutting, I've used a serger, putting yarn in the loopers and thread in the needle. The advantage there is that you have a nice finished edge. Or you can just sew, cut your steeks, and then do a cross stitch to finish off the edges.

Pick up stitches along the front band edge, 1 stitch for each row since the row gauge is the same for the body and front band. Use a small size needle, such as a 2 or 3mm, leaving all of the picked up stitches on the needle. I use long DP needles. It may require 2 or 3, depending on their length. Now knit up the band, knitting the last stitch of the band together with a picked up stitch, thereby attaching the band to the body.

Play around on your swatch first. You may want to cast on one stitch to the body after the band, in addition to your steek stitches, so that you don't "lose" a stitch where you pick up stitches, so that the continuity of the pattern remains the same.

As for the raglan shoulder seam, I don't see why you couldn't use steek stitches there too. At each armhole, put 10 stitches on hold, 5 for each of the front and back per the pattern and add your steek stitches.

Definitely try everything out on a sample first, but I think it would be much easier to work in the round.

Starting with the bottom band stitches included and knitting back and forth as you suggest would give me a nice, clean bottom edge for the button band--great idea.

I think with a little pushing and shoving, I can get the raglan sleeves to work in the round, too. Haven't done the math, but it must be possible!

As you say, I need to work this out carefully, with swatches, but I am hopeful.