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January 30, 2006
Photos anyone?
I'm still anxiously awaiting seeing others' photos of their progress. Only one person answered my blog roll call message earlier, and I know there are more of you out there with blogs. ( : I've got some updated photos on my blog (www.passioknits.blogspot.com) of my very productive week of knitting, including the Am Kamin
Posted by julie at 01:33 PM | Comments (9)
January 29, 2006
Working the front
Well, the bottom band is the same, but you apparently begin with 75 stitches and increase one on the last row....but there is no identifier as to WHERE to put that increase to 76 stitches.
Does anyone have any idea? In the middle of where section A would be again? At the inside edge?
Suggestions welcome.
Posted by tenna at 01:21 PM | Comments (4)
January 25, 2006
Hi there,
My book finnally came and oooh, aaaah.
Is anybody making this sweater in a larger size? My finished sweater should be about 48" wide. I was thinking of adding some extra repeats of the pattern. Anybody else have some other great ideas?
thanks,
Adrienne
Posted by adrienne at 08:07 PM | Comments (5) | TrackBack
January 24, 2006
Just found something out!
I copied the graph into Excel, using BC/FC for the knit/purl type crosses and fc/bc for the knit/knit or purl/purl type crosses, CB for Cable Back, etc...you get the idea...
Anyway, I put the entire back on Excel, including the rows for the decreases, and now, I'm WHIPPING through the pattern. I did correct the errors, as well.
I think I'll do the same for the fronts and the sleeves, it seems to make it go so much quicker.
It's on my laptop, too, so it can sit right beside me and my favorite knitting chair, with my working row highlighted.
I ended up not using the knit symbol font--it slowed things down too much.
I only did half the pattern for the back, because I know that on the RS, I just reverse the crossed stitches on the second half, and on the wrong side, I reverse the crossed stitches on the first half.
Does that sound terribly ADD to you?
Posted by tenna at 10:03 AM | Comments (7)
January 22, 2006
Raglan shaping for the back
I think I have calculated the bindoffs for the back shaping for the raglan....
Someone let me know if I am not correct in this, but here is how I figured it...
slip to holder 5 stitches on each side of the back. This is for the underarm.
slip one stitch each side to a holder every row 3 times
slip one stitch each side to a holder every oher row 1 time
work this pattern for 9 repeats
slip one stitch each side to a holder ever row 8 times.
If you add it up, total # of stitches on the holders SHOULD BE 49 each side.
49 + 49 = 98; 138-98=40 (slip to holder for neckline)
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like once you reach the underarm for the sleeves, you'll be attaching to the armhole on both sides of the raglan edge...not a technique I'm familiar
Does anybody have a link where I could find the information I'm looking for--or does the book REALLY mean you to bind off those stitches on each side....if that's the case, how to do THAT on the left hand side???? or am I only supposed to bind off at the beginning of the rows???? (which wouldn't add up right.)
Has anybody worked this part yet?
Posted by tenna at 03:40 PM | Comments (12)
Passwords
Hi Everyone! To all people awaiting a password - I'm sorry - I'm out of town and I won't be able to update passwords until Tuesday morning. Thank you for your patience.
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 03:04 PM
Moving Right Along and Blog Roll Call
I've posted another picture of my progress on the sweater on my blog at http://passioknits.blogspot.com
Would everyone who has a blog with your photos please post a link here in the comments? I love to see people's progress. It is very motivating to me. THANKS!
Posted by julie at 02:29 PM | Comments (2)
getting closer to row 70
almost to row 70 (only 8 rows to go) and thinking about the decreases and the start of the fronts...people have been chattering about the front band...
Why couldn't it be knit along with the front, instead of separately? Wouldn't that make the front band the same exact length as the fronts?
Posted by tenna at 12:37 PM | Comments (3)
January 20, 2006
Lisa-having trouble...
Just exactly what seems to be the problem MOSTLY? It sounds like the onliest problem you're having is confusion.
Sit down with a cuppa...and look at only one of the panels at a time and study it (try one of the easier ones, like the snakey one--Part G). You see how the fishes go first one way, then the other...
On the RIGHT SIDE:
When they lean left (on the RS), slip the 1st stitch to the back (hold it with your fingers), purl the second stitch, knit the 1st stitch in the back loop.
When they lean right (on the RS), slip the 1st stitch to the back, knit the second stitch in the back loop, purl the first stitch.
On the WRONG SIDE:
When they lean left, slip the 1st stitch to the front, knit the second stitch, purl the 1st stitch through the back loop.
When they lean right, slip the 1st stitch to the front, purl the second stitch through the back loop, knit the 1st stitch.
This keeps your "traveling" stitches on top of the one below....
I call a left leaning fish a front cross on the right side and a back cross on the back.
I call a right leaning fish a back cross on the right side and a front cross on the back.
So the first row (RS) reads like so:
K1, p1 (twice), k1tbt, p1(3 times)
Row 2: K1, front cross (3 times), k1, p1, k1
Row 3: k1, p1, back cross (3 times) k2
I hope that gets you started.
The only "change" is when there is no line under the fish. The rules change only slightly when there is no line under the fish...usually, it means that you either knit both of the next two stitches, following the direction of the fish (either left or right as before) or you purl both. It depends on which side you're on, and what "juncture" you're at in the pattern. Once you get started, you will be able to determine it quite easily.
But the very very first thing to do is to sit down and relax...tell yourself it's a masterable technique no different than a 2x2x2 cable---you're just using two stitches at a time, instead of 4 or 6 or 8 or whatever else you're accustomed to working.
And...if all else fails, substitute your own favorite cables or background stitches...the end result will be no less stunning!
Have fun with this. Knitting is supposed to be relaxing!
just liek that
Posted by tenna at 03:57 PM | Comments (0)
January 19, 2006
Chart Reading Question - help
Before I buy some clear sheets to copy the pattern I need to understand the chart reading a little better. I started Row 1 of the back and following the chart from right to left thru chart A - then I finished the back by following the chart from the beginning of "B" left to right. On the purl side, I read the chart from right to left also but finished at the end of"B" and then read left to right starting with "A". I am not sure if this is right because I think some of the symbols (i.e. famous flying fish) should also be turned when I am doing this. I think the transparent sheets will help me because I can reverse them but could some explain if I should also turn the symbols. I am sorry I am not understanding this better. On a very happy note I did master all of the symbols.
Thank you so much.
Susan
Posted by susan at 03:41 PM | Comments (6)
Book and Yarn
My pattern book, ordered through Kinokuniya, was delivered Tuesday, and this morning I ordered Jamieson's Aran yarn in Stonewash, a dark teal, from She Ewe Knits, a Canadian company in Ontario. This yarn is described as a perfect substitute for the old AS Bainin, so I'm pretty confidant about it, and the color is wonderful. Due to customs considerations it will probably be 7 - 10 days before delivery, so I'll spend that time charting the various motifs in Stitch and Motif Maker (and trying to finish my lace shawl!).
Dicksie
Posted by dicksie at 02:15 PM | Comments (5)
January 18, 2006
Checking In
After my struggles with the "wrong side" of my swatch, I have decided to work this sweater in the round. I'm steeking the armholes and will sew the sleeves in "after". Also I've decided to do the buttonband later. I've pasted the individual chart sections in their proper order on another piece(s) of paper (24" for one-half of total garment). I'm working the charts right to left and then, after reaching the center back panel, working left to right. I've finished the ribbing and two rounds of the pattern(s). If I just don't forget which way I'm going (and/or get dizzy) think this will work!
I'm using Cascade 220 and #3 very long circular.
Jane
Posted by jane at 08:46 AM | Comments (7)
January 17, 2006
Front band length adjustments
I'm looking ahead here since I chose to start one side of the front in lieu of swatching. Since the front bands are knitted along with the body, I fear that the front bands will be too long - creating the "dreaded frontal droop" as Meg Swansen calls it. I don't want to fuss with using smaller needles for the band or knitting it separately, so I'm doing occasional short rows. Has anyone else considered doing this?
I didn't do any short-rows in the rib section. In the main pattern section I'm doing a short row (wrap and turn on the last stitch before the band) about every 12th row, and I like the way that looks. Sorry I don't have a picture to post (I need to set up a place to post pictures).
Posted by marie at 04:34 PM | Comments (3)
How far are you?
Everybody check in and let us know where you're at in the knitting of this sweater.
I'm about 9" into the back (from the bottom edge).
How far have you gotten?
Posted by tenna at 01:09 PM | Comments (12)
January 15, 2006
We live and learn....
Okay, after much progress on my pullover in the round using Rowan's Cashsoft DK, I finally had to admit that the cables were starting to look squishy and not pronouced. So, for the 4th time, I'm knitting with a new yarn. (My husband can't believe this is all coming from my stash. He thinks I'm making covert trips to the yarn shop!)
I am now using Maggie's Aran by Maggie Jackson. I've gone down to a size 6 needle and the cables are really looking nice. It is a much firmer fabric than the Cashsoft was. If anyone knows of any reason why I should not use this yarn, please speak now or forever hold your peace!!!!
Glad to be back on here after a week's absence. My hard drive crashed, as did the one on my husband's laptop, and the one that is our cable box/digital video recorder. We've got some bad Mojo going on over here!
I've now posted a photo of my progress on my blog, which you can see at http://passioknits.blogspot.com/
Posted by julie at 02:50 PM | Comments (0)
made a blog
Hi to all,
I've made myself a blog, primitive as yet and no photo's, because I'm waiting for a new camera.
this is the link:
http://itsallinpieces.blogspot.com/
Posted by natasja at 12:38 PM | Comments (0)
Morehouse Merino
Has anyone tried Morehouse Merino 3-strand worsted? It is supposed to knit at 4 - 4.5 st/inch on 5 -8 needles. There is a wonderful selection of colors. I think I'll order a skein and do some swatching with it. (My book should be here by Tuesday! Yaaaaah!
Dicksie
Posted by dicksie at 12:15 AM | Comments (1)
January 14, 2006
Here's my swatch ...
... which is also the back ;-)
That's one whole repeat, ~31 rows. Used Cascade 220, color #9451 using US7 /4.5mm needles.
I found that it was not so scarey after all. Just needed to remind myself when to place the cable in front when I was knitting the wrong side.
Posted by marina at 01:39 PM | Comments (3)
Crossed eyes
Finished the hat, it looks good. Finished the back ribbing, that is ok too. Started the back cables, eyes crossed and brain (what little is left) shut down. Sooo yesterday I spent the entire day doing something that I beleaved I would never do. I re-dreafted the charts to "What you see is what you knit" format. So row 1 (ws) shows all the knits and twisted purls, row 2 (rs) shows purls and twisted knits. It is a format I have heard of but never actually seen in use.
So today after I finish the saddles for the FLAK, I will attempt to start the back cables using the new charts and see if that helps at all.
Please someone tell me you are having trouble with the mental gymnastics.
Or stop me if I have the whole thing screwed up!
Posted by anita at 10:50 AM | Comments (2)
January 13, 2006
Got gauge....or close enough
I finally got gauge (6.5 spi and 6 rpi on size 7s) with the Peruvian Highland Chunky from Elann. Great. Why am I not happy you may ask. I'm running into the same problem that BGK had earlier--the color of the yarn (spiced wine) is competing with the design of the pattern. I want to knit this sweater in a color as close to the original as possible--without leaning too much to a true red. Spiced wine was the closest I could get in this yarn. Well, it doesn't show in the photo at Elann or on my blog (although mine does show the color closer to what it really is) that the color has a heathered texture with some yellow varigation. There are other colors thrown in as well. Too much competition. So, I think I'm going to hold off on the project for a bit. I ordered some WOA earlier for swatching, so I may try that--but not try to get the gauge called for in the sweater. Come up with MY gauge and redesign the sweater around that. I checked The Sweater Workshop out of the library and will utilize the info in that, as well as from FLAK in redesigning CIT just for me.
Edited to add: You can see a photo of both my swatches from this week on my blog Don't let the photos fool you--read my bold comments at the end of each post. These photos show off the swatches much better than they appear in real life. I'd be thrilled if they really looked like this.
Posted by jens at 08:51 AM | Comments (4)
January 12, 2006
Purchasing Japanese Knitting Yarns
Denise, from the Knitting Beyond Hebrides List, sent me the following information:
"I recently found an online knitting site called AmiAmi which imports Japanese knitting yarn into North America through Canada. (They have a Japanese site as well).
http://www.ami-itoya.com/ca/index.html
I just received a free set of sample cards (quite extensive). When I looked through them, I thought some of them might be suitable for the Crossed in Translation project. The owners might be able to help with information on the yarn used in the patterns. Shipping is a flat $8 CAD per order, for both Canada and the US."
Thanks Denise!
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 01:41 PM | Comments (2)
Still waiting
YesAsia has the book on backorder - I'm so afraid they will not be able to locate a copy for me, and I really want to knit this sweater. Does anyone know of another source? In the meantime I enviously read all the posts, with great interest, particularly which yarns are working and which aren't. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
Dicksie
Posted by dicksie at 12:27 PM | Comments (4)
Found another mistake...
On the very last row, in section E, the first "twist" pair should have an underline.
And I made a mistake about 10 rows down, and have to frog because it's in the XOX cable...what is the best way to frog this kind of cabling? Would you just frog the cable? Tear out the 10 rows?
Suggestions...
I'm too far to want to pull out all those 10 rows, so I need a "teacher" to help me frog back...
(thinking out loud)
Maybe I should go to the LYS...maybe 4 hands will be better than two? LOL!
Posted by tenna at 07:33 AM | Comments (3)
Ooooh, I'm Swatching My Life Away......
I'm having so much fun! It may be that I never actually knit this sweater, but what I am learning about these yarns is pretty fun! As much as I would love to post it all here, I have already posted to my blog, so head on over there to read the details. And I noticed that when I post here my name shows as "terry", but when I comment I am "Teresa C". Just so you know, we are one in the same. And for now, I think all of my personalities are integrated. Swatching for this sweater may change all of that......
Posted by terry at 12:25 AM | Comments (9)
January 11, 2006
Dare I Hope....
that I found a yarn that will work?!?!? So far, it's taken 3 yarns and several needle sizes per yarn. But I think, I think I just may have a contender here. Unblocked my gauge is 6.2 rows per inch and 6.5 stitches per inch. So close to what I want it to be--I think if I block it a little wider, it may help it to draw up that almost 1/4 inch to get me right at row gauge!! The fabric looks pretty good unwashed/unblocked. I was hoping for something a little heavier, but it may bloom after washing. We'll see. It was after 1 am when i went to bed last night, thinking that my stitch per inch was like 7.5--but I realized this morning that I had included the garter stitch borders in my stitch count, but had not measured those! So on the inside I'm doing a little happy dance, but just on the inside, as I don't want to jinx it. BUT I am very excited and hopeful!!! If this one works out I'll edit this post this afternoon with the yarn name, measurements, and link to photo at my blog when the swatch has dried.
Edited to add: I am quickly losing hope in this yarn. While it appears as though it will block to exactly the dimensions I need (of course, it would) the llama content of the yarn has certainly bloomed far beyond what I thought it would and is obscuring the beautiful cable patterns. They are visible, but not clear. I don't want that. I want those babies to pop! The yarn in question is Peruvian Collection Uros Aran from Elann. I don't even think I will try swatching with the Peruvian Collection Sierra Aran for fear it will do the same--it is a wool/alpaca blend--20% alpaca. I may go ahead and just try the Peruvian Collection HIghland Chunky just to see if it will work. I'm pretty bummed right now.....really thought I had it.
I am seriously considering holding off on this pattern until FLAK is done. Janet is teaching us what goes into designing an aran, not just providing a pattern. I'm thinking I could take what I learn from her and make these cable patterns from CIT work for me, no matter what yarn I'm using. I could change the raglan to a modified drop, modified saddle, or modified raglan. Then the sweater would be just for me--not a one size pattern that I've coerced into working for me--you know what I mean? I could use any yarn, any weight--do the measurements, the math, and have a custom fit sweater with these cables I love. That's the line of thinking all this swatching without success has led me to. I know it's a process....and I'm all into that--much more than I used to be. I'm learning tons.....I just want it to work without breaking the bank swatching.
Posted by jens at 07:50 AM | Comments (3)
January 10, 2006
Looking ahead...
Well, I was looking ahead, beyond the graphed instructions...and...
when you start the next repeat after the last row on the graph, you have to start at different places to maintain the integrity of the pattern.
I think that for the most part, most of the pattern is fairly "memorizable", but two or three of the panels aren't.
The next repeat is going to be interesting....it's not something I've done before, so I'm a little more than intrepid....scared...ok...TERRIFIED!
Posted by tenna at 01:31 PM | Comments (2)
Tweed too Tweedy?
I'm stash diving and came up with an alpaca tweed. I don't generally see many arans made from very tweedy yarn. I've heard that cables can get lost in this type of yarn. But this yarn is such a pleasure to knit with. I think I may be hooked on it. What do you think? http://bubblegumknits.blogspot.com/ (January 10th)
Is anyone else swatching with tweed yarn.? .... Would love to see your swatch(es).
edit: As suggested by Jen. The swatch in sunlight
NOTE: image takes 15 seconds on 56k modem to load
http://bubblegumknits.blogspot.com/2006/01/swatch-in-sun.html
BGK
Posted by bgk at 01:07 PM | Comments (7)
Hat Attempt...
Ok, I'm thinking of starting the hat in the hopes that it will give me some confidence for the sweater. I have some Jaeger Shetland Aran in stash and plan to use that since that was already used successfully by someone else. I have a few questions on the symbols. There is the twisted knit stitch and I'm assuming the similar one with the line underneath is the twisted purl. The ribbing I do for the number of rows specified in the parenthesis to the right of the hat graph?? The x's and o's I think I can figure out although I may have some questions as to changing them for working in the round. Then there is the flying fish symbol. I know it has been explained here already and I will look through to see if I can figure out how to do it in the round. Any tips?
Thanks!
Lisa
Posted by lisah at 10:20 AM | Comments (1)
chart A and numbers
Hi to all,
I've finished the bottom band of one of the fronts. In chart A on the very first row, about in the middele of the chart it says "knit two stitches together on the wrong side". Does anyone know if I'm right and why this should be done?
Also on a few charts the most right or left vertical row has numbers. Does anyone know what they are there for?
Thanks to anybody who knows!
Bye,
Natasja.
Posted by natasja at 09:57 AM | Comments (4)
January 09, 2006
Upsizing
I need to make the cardi at least 4 inches larger than the pattern. In other words, the bust size needs to be 43.5 or 44 inches vs. 39.5 inches as written. How shall I tackle that?
Thinking out loud here . . . some of the increasing will need to be in the sections in the raglan areas of the fronts and back, with corresponding increases in the sleeve width. Then some increases in the sections that form the neck areas. Am I on the right track here? How will I adjust the neckband? The ribbing?
I've ordered some Cascade 220, but I'm open to a heavier weight yarn, especially if the gauge will result in 4 more inches! Absent that, shall I insert some filler stitches? If so, where?
Since this cardi is not challenging enough, I'm raising the bar! :)
Posted by beverly at 10:39 PM | Comments (3)
A photo of my progress
Here is a link to my blog, where you will find a photo of my progress thus far on the pullover version of this sweater that I am doing. The lighting did not allow me to get a very detailed photo, but I'm a newbie to this camera and haven't gotten it all figured out yet.
http://passioknits.blogspot.com/
How are the rest of you coming along with this project????
Posted by julie at 04:18 PM | Comments (6)
Swatch or Cardigan?
My big swatch in Rowans Magpie Aran starts to look very promising. Maybe I have started my cardigan:) I am aiming to have a finished measurement of about 105 cm and this looks to be very close. I am using needles 4mm and the gauge is c. 26-27s and 24rows/10cm. I chose to knit the fronts and the back at the same time and I made the ribbing a bit shorter. Now I am doing some shaping for the waist and perhaps I will make set in sleeves. We will see. Picture:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/monicaweckstrom/detail?.dir=/2b66&.dnm=c01ere2.jpg&.src=ph
EDIT
Try this link: http://villaaylle.blogspot.com/
I am not really bloging yet, but here you can see the picture.
Posted by monica at 01:32 PM | Comments (7)
Need one more skein (updated)
Nevermind! Threadbear came through with another skein of the same dyelot. I thought they were out when I grabbed the last of it on the shelf!
Okay, folks, I will post again later with dye lot information, but I'm going to need one more skein of the wine/burgundy Cascade 220--I think the color # is 4008 dye lot is 2326...
I've got 2 skeins at home, 5 at the LYS on hold, but I don't think it's going to be enough. It will take me through most of the sweater, but for the last bit of sleeves and some of the button band...but if I can find another skein, I'll be all set.
Vendors can contact me. Happy to pay for the item if I can find the dye lot...so look through your stash.
Posted by tenna at 08:09 AM | Comments (0)
January 07, 2006
Impatiently Waiting
I've been ready all your entries, and looking at your yarn choices. Patience it not one of my virtues, but it appears I will have to learn it. I'm trying to chart (in Stitch and Motif Maker) a number of the panels based on the photo, after sketching them out - we'll see how they compare with reality when the pattern arrives (two weeks -arghhh!). In the meantime I can't even decide on a color - love the Tormenteil from VY, and I actually have enough of the original Bainin in wine to knit this. Thanks again to Cara for creating this KAL.
Dicksie
Posted by dicksie at 01:54 PM | Comments (0)
Still Swatching
Swatching away on my fifth yarn with a sixth in the wings and a trip to the lys planned for later today. I'm hoping to get photos and details up over the weekend or by Monday. It is hard to put the needles down and take the time to do this. I have a question for anyone who has experience with Brown Sheep Naturespun Worsted. Could you tell me if you liked it or not, how it wears (pilling, stretching, that sort of thing), and if it expands much after getting wet. Anything else that seems relevant would be great. I am noticing that it is a little bit splitty, which drives me batty and will be an issue with all of the travelling and twisting.
The yarns I have knitted up so far are Rauma 3tr. Strikkegarn (definite no), Peer Gynt (I love it, but would need to do some work with the pattern to get it to size and it wouldn't be the heavier sweater that I am hoping for), Jo Sharp 8-ply DK (ditto the Peer Gynt) and Magpie (loved it, but the gauge worked a bit larger than the pattern before washing and I know it will bloom-I'm looking for a bit smaller a sweater than the pattern). More details later........
Posted by terry at 10:03 AM | Comments (2)
January 06, 2006
Small Chart Error
I have been swatching obsessively for this sweater (four yarns and counting) and along the way found a small error in one of the charts. It is chart C on row 27 (from the bottom, including the first row that is a plain knit or purl row), a right side row, the second stitch is marked as a twisted knit when it should be a purl. Any questions or if this is unclear, let me know. Knit on!
Posted by terry at 10:40 AM | Comments (1)
Hat
My hat in Jaeger Shetland Aran, 80% alpaca 20% wool is ready for use. I knit the hat in the round on dpns 3,5mm and 4,5mm. It is a bit on the big side, but I can use it. I would want a better stitch definition for the cardi, so now I am swatching Rowan Magpie Aran. The cables pops really nice, but the question is: will it fit? The swatch I am working on now is big. I cast on 145 sts for the tubular co and ended up with 289 sts, enough for the back and the fronts:)
A picture of the hat: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/monicaweckstrom/detail?.dir=2b66&.dnm=33b8re2.jpg&.src=ph
I tried to post the picture here but...
Posted by monica at 04:51 AM | Comments (6)
January 05, 2006
Blog Posting FAQ
Hi all - thought I'd throw out an FAQ on posting to the blog. Please let me know if I've missed something! Thank you.
Do I need a password to READ and COMMENT on the blog?
Absolutely not. This blog works like all the other blogs you read on a daily basis - to read and comment all you have to do is read and comment. A password is only necessary if you want to post your own entries.
What if I want to post my own entries?
Well, then you need a login and a password. If you don't have one, you can request one from me by emailing me at host AT crossedintranslation DOT com.
How do I log in?
There's a link to the login on the right sidebar at the top. Or you can click here. Just fill out the login information sent to you and you will be taken to the main administrative page of the blog.
I've never posted to a blog before. How do I do it?
Once you've logged in, you'll see a listing for the Crossed In Translation blog. It's the only blog on the page. Directly across from the name of the blog it says "Create a New Entry on this Weblog." Click on that, and a new page will open. There you will see the Create A New Entry page. Here you can fill out the title of your entry, fill out the entry, and when you are finished, you can preview the entry by hitting the preview button at the bottom of the page. When you are satisfied with your entry, you can change the drop down box at the bottom from UNPUBLISHED to PUBLISHED. You must hit Save in order for your changes to be recorded. If you hit save without changing the status to PUBLISHED, the entry will NOT appear on the blog. Feel free to save it in unpublished mode and come back to edit, but remember, in order for the entry to appear on the blog, you must save it as published.
Once you have completed the entry, you can log out or just close out of the site.
What kinds of things can I post?
Post questions, answers, tips, links, brag about your progress, bitch about your progress. I don't really care what you post as long as its relevant to the KAL. One request though - the blog is moving VERY FAST, so it's easy for you to miss an answer to your question. Please check the archives to see if your question has already been answered BEFORE you post a question. Thank you. [I will try to get a google search bar up in the next few days. Can't quite seem to figure out how to do it at this moment.]
Can I post pictures to the blog?
Absolutely! I encourage you to post pictures. BUT, please link them from your own server. DO NOT UPLOAD THEM TO THE BLOG. This is how you link a picture to the blog:
[img src="http://www.yourblognamehere.com/yourimagename.jpg" class="img"]
You will need to trade out the [] for <>. Also, I've added a class="img" tag which will put a white border around the pictures. If you have any questions about linking pictures, feel free to ask. Also, if you do not have a blog or a place to host pictures, contact me and I'll will try to find a place to host your picture. ANY PICTURES UPLOADED DIRECTLY TO THE BLOG WILL BE DELETED. I'm already using up a lot of bandwidth for the site alone, so I'd appreciate it if you could host your own pictures. Thank you for your understanding.
That's it for now. Again, please let me know if I've missed something. I see this FAQ as a work in progress.
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 08:40 AM | Comments (2)
IMPORTANT - CHECK YOUR JUNK MAIL
I'm getting multiple requests for sign in information - PLEASE CHECK YOUR SPAM AND JUNK MAIL IN BOXES for the sign in information. Many, many free email accounts, and some pay accounts, will automatically place an unknown email address into spam.
Thank you.
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 08:08 AM | Comments (0)
January 04, 2006
Have you started yet?
Has anyone actually started knitting the sweater? After 5000 swatches and yarn changings, and false start through to a full repeat of the ribbing pattern (in the round, mind you), only to find it was about 45 stitches too big!!!!! I frogged, changed yarn, swatched some more, did some measurements, and now I'VE FINALLY CAST ON FOR MY SWEATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so happy to have this going. As mentioned, I'm doing this in the round, as I've chosen to do a pullover version. I'm a brand new blogger, so I will post some photos to my blog, as soon as I figure out how to do that!
Let me know if any of you has started and whether you have photos! I'm ready to roll!!!
Posted by julie at 07:22 PM | Comments (8)
Request for Symbol Legend
I've had a few requests for symbol legends - I think this could be very helpful and not a violation of copyright. (Basically because you'd have to have the pattern for the symbols to make sense.)
If anyone would like to send me notes on the symbols, or however you want to get them to me - I can make up some pretty charts and pretty pictures and put them up here.
I've also received a translation of the sentences at the top of the pattern and will be posting it shortly.
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 06:39 PM | Comments (7)
Working Travelling Twisted Stitches
Beverly asked in comments to a previous post if someone could explain how to work the travelling stitches. I'll try to do that here, but please feel free to correct any errors I make in my explanations. I don't use a cable needle, and there is more than one way to work these stitches, this is just the way that works for me. ADDED LATER: At the bottom of this post are directions for travelling twisted stitches using a cable needle thanks to Julie. Try them both and see which works for you!
There are four basic symbols used in these patterns. In each of them the *flying fish* represents a twisted stitch on the right side travelling to the right or the left over a purl or a knit stitch. In two of the symbols for travelling stitches there is a small horizontal line underneath the *flying fish* indicating that the stitch that will "trade places" with the travelling twisted stitch is a purl (when looked at from the right side of the work). A symbol with a *flying fish* leaning to the right with a small horizontal line is worked as follows:
On the right side, work to one stitch before the knit stitch that will travel, with the yarn held in front slip the next stitch, knit the next stitch tbl (through the back loop), insert the left hand needle into the back of the second stitch (slipped stitch) on the right hand needle and move it to the left hand needle letting the first stitch slip off of the needle for a second and pick it up again with the right hand needle, purl the next stitch.
To work this same symbol from the wrong side work to the stitch that will be travelling, with the yarn held in front of the needle, slip the stitch, knit the next stitch, insert the left hand needle into the back of the second stitch (slipped stitch) on the right hand needle and move it to the left hand needle letting the first stitch drop off the needle for a second and pick it up with the right hand needle, purl the next stitch TBL (twisting it).
WHEW! Got that? Okay. Now to work a symbol with a *flying fish* leaning to the left with a horizontal line beneath it do this:
On the right side, Work to the stitch that will travel and with the yarn held in back slip the stitch to the right hand needle, purl the next stitch, insert the left hand needle into the front of the second stitch on the right hand needle moving it to the left needle and letting the first stitch drop off the needle for a second, pick it up with the right hand needle, knit the next stitch tbl.
On the wrong side work to one stitch before the stitch that is to travel, with the yarn held behind the needle slip the next stitch, purl the next stitch tbl, insert the left hand needle into the second stitch on the right hand needle from the front and move it to the left hand needle letting the first stitch drop off for a second and picking it up with the right hand needle, knit the next stitch.
There are also *flying fish* symbols without the small horizontal lines beneath them. They are worked the same way, but on the right side all stitches are knitted and on the wrong side all are purled, working the stitches crossing on the right side of the work as twisted stitches or through the back loop. Let me know if you want me to detail those, or I could try to get pictures of all of them as I work them and post them to my blog if needed. Hope this helps!
Julie's cable needle instructions for travelling twisted stitches:
I posted this deep within the comments of another post, but for the sake of having them together, here is how (I believe)to do the cables WITH a cable needle.
A fish flying up to the right with no line beneath is done as follows: take first stitch to back on cable needle. Knit next stitch through the back loop. Knit the stitch off the cable needle regularly. Flying fish up to the right with a line underneath: take first stitch to back on cable neelde. Knit next stitch through the back loop. PURL stitch off of cable needle.
Flying fish pointing up and to the left without a line underneath: put first stitch on cable needle and pull to front. Knit the next stitch normally, then knit the stitch off the cable needle through the back loop. For a flying fish pointing up and to the left WITH a line underneath: put first stitch on cable needle and pull to front. PURL next stitch, then knit the stitch off the cable needle through the back loop.
This is because without a line, you knit the stitch which will be in the back and with the line, you Purl the stitch that will be in the back. With both types of fish, you are knitting through the back loop of the front stitch.
Now, on the purl side, if I am not mistaken you make the cables as follows:
FLying fish up to right with no line: take first stitch to back on cable needle. PURL next stich (because you want it to look like a knit on the public side) without twisting, as this will be the BACK stitch from the public side. Next, purl the stitch off the cable needle through the back loop, as it will be the FRONT stitch from the public side. When there IS a line underneath, take the first stitch to the back, KNIT the next stitch, because you want it to look like a purl on the public side. Then, PURL the stitch off the cable needle through the back loop, since it is the front stitch on the public side.
For flying fish pointing up to the left on the purl side without a line underneath: put first stitch on cable needle and bring towards you. PURL the next stitch through the back loop, as it will be the FRONT stitch on the public side. Then, purl the stitch off the cable needle normally, so it looks like a knit stitch on the public side. If there IS a line underneath, put first stitch on cable needle and bring towards you. PURL next stitch through the back loop, as it will be the FRONT stitch from the public side. Then, KNIT the stitch off the cable needle so that it looks like a purl stitch on the public side.
I hope that is right and I hope that it helps. I'm posting this when I'm half asleep, so forgive my mistakes if I'm wrong. I did it this way and it worked.
Posted by terry at 12:25 AM | Comments (3)
January 03, 2006
Yarn Quest
I am still in search of a yarn suitable to get the gauge called for, so after reading Marina's blog, I've decided to try and find one as close to the yards per 100g as the yarn used in the original. This is what I've come up with so far:
Peruvian Collection Sierra Aran
Peruvian Collection Highland Chunky
Any thoughts, other suggestions? I need to get something ordered! Help a girl out :o)
Posted by jens at 08:26 PM | Comments (22)
Armhole shaping
The armhole shaping that has been mentioned was a little confusing to me, so this is what I came up with for the armhole shaping.
BO 5 sts on next 2 rows.*dec 1 st EACH SIDE of next 3 rows. dec 1 st EACH SIDE every other row 1 time.* Rep between *s 8 times. Dec 1 st EACH SIDE every row 8 times. 98 sts decreased (49 each side) leaving 40 sts. I got 55 rows for this. others have 54 or 50 rows.
Of course I'm way ahead of myself, it will be ages before I get to the armhole.
Posted by paty at 07:00 PM | Comments (3)
Making Sense of the Pattern
I have entered the body...sounds a little like science fiction, but there you go. I get a couple rows in, and it appears that in section "G", there is a travelling (twist and cross) stitch that loops around and so forth, but it's made up of 2 knit sts which are on the wrong side, and therefore, the "travelling" isn't viewed on the right side, which is making no sense at all--everything else works out GREAT--the cables, the twisted stitches and all the rest of the twist and cross stitches, except for this one that presents itself as a knit knit on the wrong side.
Has anyone else come across this quandry yet, and...determined how to work it so that the twist and cross appear on the right side of the fabric?
Posted by tenna at 04:12 PM | Comments (20)
January 02, 2006
Yarn amounts needed
After freaking out a little, then doing a little research, here is what I come up with for the necessary yarn amount for the sweater only. I believe, after searching the Hamanaka website, that the correct yarn does indeed have 75 meters per 50 grams. Thus, 865 grams divided by 50 grams = 17.3 balls of yarn. Each ball is 75 meters, so 75 times 17.3 balls = 1297.5 meters. Yards are roughly 1.09 meters, so 1297.5 times 1.09 = 1414.275 yards, or a little more than 1414 yards. Does this make sense????? Someone, please chime in and let me know what you think, so I can get started on this project. THANKS!!!
Posted by julie at 04:36 PM | Comments (3)
button bands, decreases and gauge
Anybody sure if the button bands are supposed to be knitted in at the same time as the body which is generally not done? The pattern shows that decreases and increases after the ribbing are to be done in specific places to keep the lines running up continuously. Note arrows pointing to the line between the body and the band. While the gauge is measured in A-I, these patterns do not appear together on any peice of the garment, so you will have to create a gauge swatch that is not like one of the pieces of the sweater. Amazing how much Japanese one can learn just by looking at the obvious, but I guess that's because they write their patterns so well. Now if they would only do it for human sized people and not the wonderfully diminutive Japanese.
Posted by sue at 03:43 PM | Comments (5)
The other Beginnings
Whoops, I forgot to write this in my last post. The ribbing chart has a bunch of symbols and arrows underneath it referring to where to start each piece of the garment. From left to right, the first arrow is the indicator for the Right Front and the Collar (after the band stitches), the next arrow, the bent one, inidicated the beginning stitch of the Left Front and the arrow furthest to the right is the stitch to start the back and the sleeve on. Hope this is helpful!
Posted by terry at 12:53 PM | Comments (0)
Beginning
I'm still in the swatching phase, but am reading with interest the beginnings of everyone's projects. I still haven't swatched a yarn that I am in love with and I really don't want to make this with anything but something I love. I swatched several yarns for my first (and second) Rogues and it was worth the effort, I love them both.
A quick comment about the cast on. From my interpretation of the chart, and looking at the photo, it is a Tublular Cast On. Look at the bottom of the charts for the ribbing and the button bands. The first three to four rows show only half the stitches. A tubular cast on (the one I know how to do-a search of the internet brought up two types, but this is the appropriate one) requires you to cast on half the number of necessary stitches with waste yarn, work in stockinette stitch for four or so rows and then pick up stitches from the bottom, turning it up and increasing to the number of stitches that you need. It is lovely and worth the effort. Hop over to My Fashionable Life, Little Purl of the Orient, and Knitty for excellent lessons (way more detailed than my lame explanation) to get you through it.
Posted by terry at 12:09 PM | Comments (2)
Starting Out Slowly
I started swatching last night. I really want to use some luscious Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran that I purchased at a bag sale at my LYS. I only have 1620m which is less than another poster read from the pattern (1727m). Does anyone have any further thoughts about how much yarn we will need?
Posted by lorig at 11:25 AM | Comments (1)
guage
Because this is twisted stitch, the guage may be correct. Remember that cabling draws in your stitches and twisted stitches do the same, so this will be a dense fabric if the yarn is in fact Aran weight which it appears and id knitted at 28stitches to the 4" or sock yarn guage.
Posted by sue at 09:27 AM | Comments (0)
January 01, 2006
Getting Started
Okay, so if I am reading this correctly...
CO 139 sts w/ tube cast on
Work pattern J for 16 rows
Now when it calls for pattern J - do I include the non twisted column on the right? There seem to be a number of arrows telling me what to do... but I can't figure out what they are saying!
Posted by rebecca at 10:40 PM | Comments (5)
Making Sense of the Pattern
Here are some of the "translations" I've come up with. Many are educated guesses, so please feel free to confirm and/or correct:
The gauge is 28 sts x 24 rows = 10cm (about 4") in Pattern A~I, not in st st, on US #7 ndls. The yarn they used is 60% wool/40% acrylic. They used 23 balls @ 50g each, 75 m (about 82.5 yds) each, for a total of almost 1900 yds. The back width is about 19.25"; each front is about 10.5", for a finished bust size just over 41". The sleeve length is about 27.375" (at its longest point all the way to the neck); the cuff is about 9" around. The back length is about 22.5"; the front length is about 21.875". The side seam to the underarm is a little over 13.5".
And I have some questions:
1 - would a tubular cast on be a good one for this project? If not, what?
2 - how do you do those twisted stitches on the wrong side? Yikes!
Blessings,
Beverly in Roswell, GA
Posted by beverly at 06:08 PM | Comments (10)
KAL-Cable border and beginning the body
Remember to bind off one stitch at the end of the last row of the cable lower edge before beginning the body of the sweater AND..change to the size larger needles...AND...
End on a RIGHT SIDE row, begin the body of the sweater on the WRONG side on the row BEFORE the one marked "row 1". That way, your 2x2 cables will always be on the KNIT row.
Posted by tenna at 04:38 PM | Comments (5)
Japanese Needle size
Japanese Needles sizes are slightly different then what we are used to.
A Conversion Chart can be found here http://www.tata-tatao.to/knit/e-index.html
The ribbing is done on Japanese size 7 which roughly translates as
4.2mm. This number is found to right of the characters in Parenthesises.
The body is done on Japanese size 8 which is 4.5mm, Which is found below the Roman alphabet letters denoting pattern order.
Posted by quelyn at 04:38 PM | Comments (0)
Gauge Misprint.
Hello,
I'm Quelyn from Washington State.
Looking over the gauge intructions I've noticed something strange.
Had a Japanese friend who knits translate for me. It read 28 stitches 24 rows to a 10x10cm square.
This doesn't sound right at all. Unless this is something that happens with Bavarian Twisted stitches. Never knitted them so wouldn't know.
Those with experience in them please comment.
Posted by quelyn at 03:44 PM | Comments (10)
Swatches and yarn
I've done a lot of swatching for this sweater, and I've decided that I'm actually going to do a pullover instead of a cardigan, and I'm just repeating the back pattern for the front. It was way too much like work to try to do the cables on the purl side, too. Plus, I'm not really a cardy girl. I prefer pullovers.
I first tried Rowan 4-ply, which has a suggested gauge of 28 sts to 4 in., but alas and alak, it was on size 3 needles, I believe. I decided I was not going to use that, except for a Barbie sweater, as it was just too small. Then I moved on to Artyarns Supermerino, as I must have something soft enough to wear against the skin. I tried different needle sizes and have decided I will use a size 4, with which I got 6 stitiches to the inch. That will upsize the sweater for me just right (I hope) and I won't have to change the numbers in the pattern.
I have also written out all the directions, which I have cyphered using several websites. Would that be helpful to post, or would that be a copyright infringement?
I'm looking forward to starting with you all!
Julie
PassioKnits
Posted by julie at 10:20 AM | Comments (10)
Yarn Selection
Here we go! YAY! I've not started on this project at all - but that's okay - I'd love to start swatching with some Cascade 220, maybe even today, but I'm also thinking this might be a great opportunity to try out some new yarns. I'm planning on taking my time with this project - I want it to be just right - so what's the rush, right? Many swatches might be in order! So I thought it might be a good idea to collect a list of all the possible yarns for this project. Can you help? If possible, leave a comment with the suggested yarn in the comments and any other information you might have about it (gauge, texture, etc.) Have you swatched it? Maybe a link to a swatch picture as well. I'll start keeping a list and hopefully we'll be able to add this information to the resources links in the sidebar. In the meantime, please check out Mary's gorgeous swatches! She'd done a few in Cascade 220, Blackwater Abbey, Jamieson's DK. She's got a few others up her sleeve too!
I think I'm going to spend some of my birthday money on Virtual Yarns 3-ply Hebridean! What AMAZING colors!
Enjoy everyone. This is going to be a very interesting ride!
Best,
Cara
Posted by Host at 09:21 AM | Comments (4)
Natasja from the Netherlands
My name is Natasja Segerink and I live in the Netherlands. I will be knitting with Hebredean 3 ply in Red Deer.
I made a start yesterday but came directly upon my first prblem. The chart of bottomband show three row of plain rib without the crossed stitches, but looking at the picture they don't show. Has this anything to do with the cast on?
Any help will be greatly aprreciated.
Thanks,
Natasja.
Posted by natasja at 05:28 AM | Comments (4)
KAL
I got the book over a week ago, knitted up the hat that goes with the sweater. I knitted flat, even though it calls for circular, but even so, it went quickly and was very interesting.
I'm looking forward to working the sweater--although I'm planning to do it in Cascade 220 (instead of my handspun)--I'm swatching this morning as I just finished another aran sweater pullover shown on my website..
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Lake/3346
I hope that everyone has fun with this KAL. I"m also following the AranKnit FLAK--but not knitting it this time. I like Aran sweaters because you don't get used to the pattern--things change after several stitches or rows and you're always doing something slightly different. It keeps the interest up.
Posted by tenna at 05:18 AM | Comments (0)